I'm Back

Back to France. Back to Blogging.

Sorry for my absence lately--my computer broke down in November so it was hard to keep up. Here's a recap of December:


Christmas season in Lorraine was great. On the Saturday before December 6th (the Saint's feast day) there was a big celebration for Saint Nicholas in Place Stanislas in Nancy. Tons of people turned out for the spectacle. Spectacle is the only word to describe it. Fireworks and more. Hands down best fireworks show I have ever been to. (Second best goes to 2004 Bastille Day in Paris with Miss Alison Keller--man, France knows fireworks.) I don't think I have ever been so close to the action. I mean, the fireworks were right in my face. There was also the story of Saint Nicholas projected onto a screen and the buildings all around us. The fireworks were timed with the story and music. Also, the story was in French but targeted toward little kids. Since my French level is around that of a small child, this was perfect. Except for this one part where they started talking about Africa and playing the bongos, I could understand! It was a great night though and the Nancy Christmas markets were in full swing. It was cold, but we had hot wine to warm us up afterwards!

On Sunday, the following day, there was a parade. It was okay--really rainy! But it was cool to see all of the excited French children waiting in the rain for Saint Nicholas at the end of the parade. It was just like the Thanksgiving parade, marking the beginning of the Christmas season.

The story of Saint Nicolas favored by Lorraine is the one with three children and the butcher. Legend has it, three children were murdered by a butcher and put in a barrel to cure like meat. Saint Nicholas discovered the crime and resurrected them. For this reason, he is the protector of children. In Nancy's version, the butcher becomes Pére Fouettard, or "Whipping Father" who supposedly beats kids who haven't been good this year. That's the threat anyway. Don't worry, I didn't see any of that during the spectacle.


Saint Nicolas is also the patron of Lorraine. "Patron" is also the French word for boss. On one website with a particularly poor translation of the French content, it said Saint Nicholas is the "Boss of Lorraine." Ha. Saint Nicholas wears bishop's clothing and travels by donkey. Though I think he rode a carriage into Place Stanislas. The mayor always presents him with keys to the city.


The Christmas markets tradition is great. They aren't all over France since it is originally a German tradition. Alsace-Lorraine has adopted it however, so much of my December was spent flitting about to various Christmas markets and trying their hot wine, waffles, and churros. Delicious. I also bought some Christmas gifts there. The Christmas markets are basically like a month long craft fair except substitute gifts, tasty treats and wine for homemade magnets. And rustic-looking German cabins for white tents. The markets were really pretty at night, all lit up with people gathering under the Christmas lights to warm up with some vin chaud.

One of the Christmas markets I checked out was Strasbourg. I went there with Laura and Chris and we then met up with Ana and her boyfriend. It was really fun and Strasbourg is a beautiful city. It is right on the border with Germany so it has a really really German influence. The combination is beautiful and the cathedral in town is gorgeous as well.

I went to some dance performances in December, which was great. The second one was at the Opera House in Place Stanislas. After the show, there were a bunch of kids singing French Christmas carols in front of a big tree.

After my last week of work (basically singing the Christmas song many many times) I was ready to go home. Christmas was beautiful in Lorraine--lots of white lights and pretty decorations, but I was ready for some good ol' American over-the-top Christmas fanfare. Garish lights, Christmas Carols all day, all the time (Thank you 100.3 WNIC), stockings, maybe even snow. Christmas in France is more subtle than in the USA. And I wanted Christmas done big, done loud, USA-style.


I wasn't disappointed. I had a great Christmas at home and it was very relaxing to be among family, friends and English-speakers. It was strange to be home but to know I was going back to France. I also kept waking up ridiculously early due to the time change adjustment. It was the first Christmas in awhile where I was up at the crack of dawn, just ready to begin the festivities. Just like the good ol' days. I went to see Lion King in Detroit at the Opera House, that was great. I also spent the last week in Chicago.


Arriving in France for the second time was great. Immensely less stressful. It is also amazing how much my French has improved. It's really exciting to actually be able to understand people when they talk! I felt like an old pro making my way through the long travel day: Chicago bus to Chicago el to O'Hare then 8 hour plane ride to Charles De Gaulle with a 7 hour time difference and no sleep to Paris RER train to TGV train to TER Lorraine train to the final walk across Pont-a-Mousson with luggage in tow. Tired and sore from heaving my suitcase up and down stairs and escalators, but excited to get back to France.


Only been here a few days since Christmas, so no grand adventures yets. But there are surely more to come. I'll keep you posted.